Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Day Three: First it was chasing, then he started fixing

Today marked the team’s first day of full-on interviews with former prisoners, and specifically, former prisoners who were arrested for drug use within the past few weeks and months. To say that the day was intense is perhaps an understatement.

We spent about seven hours at a drop-in center, right outside Central Station in Mumbai. The team interviewed seven drug users, and one staff member. Splitting off into pairs, the team asked general questions about what prison conditions were like in Mumbai, how guards treated inmates, how overcrowded were the prisons, and more. Several items ran consistent throughout all of the interviews.

First, almost every interviewee made clear that drug use is rampant inside prisons, and is often steered by mafia-type bosses who control the flow of drugs inside and outside of the prison gates. (Staff members also indicated that if prisoners themselves had money, it was easy for them to get drugs from the outside.) Second, medical care inside prisons is severely inadequate. Two former prisoners, released just a few weeks ago, made a point of saying that there might be two doctors for the entire jail (which holds about 500-700 inmates). The doctors also only practice for about an hour a week, if that, according to most of those interviewed. And every person that our team spoke with said that prison doctors all deal with illness the same way: whether you have a headache, a fever, stomach ache, rash or more, you are given one pill, the same pill for any condition. (*Note: in this picture, it's not actually a guy injecting drugs. It's a staff member of the drop-in center, demonstrating how users inject themselves.)

Prisoners also mentioned forced sex, rival gang violence, lack of water, and lack of comfortable sleeping conditions as major problems within Mumbai’s prisons. Many of the stories were difficult, and offered a glimpse of what it looks like within the walls of India’s prisons.

We also had the opportunity to sit in on a narcotics anonymous meeting, and two members of the team spoke with a drop-in house coordinator, who showed a diagram of how drug users inject themselves (what is commonly referred to as “fixing”). He also showed us an area directly next to the shelter, buttressed against the train station, where dozens of men were injecting themselves.

It was a challenging and emotional day, but the seven hours spent interviewing the former inmates offered quite an insight into both the drug culture but also the prison culture within Mumbai.

We finished the evening by stopping by a concert for sex workers, organized by the Gates Foundation (Richard Gere was in attendance, too!), and a full-team meeting that lasted until just after midnight.

Tuesday, January 9, 2007

Day Two: "Yeh Hai Mumbai Meri Jaan" (This too, dear friend, is Mumbai)

Our second day in Mumbai started out with an impromptu meeting with the director of a local NGO that works with drug users in Mumbai. The NGO runs two drop-in centers for drug users, as well as a counseling center. Those who attend the drop-in centers daily have access to counseling, recreation, opportunity to rest, and access to health care through staff members and referrals to specialized hospitals. In addition, the drop-in center runs a needle exchange program that hundreds of drug users access.

The NGO also visits prisons on a near daily basis, working with those who are addicted to drugs and looking for help. They’ve created their own barracks in one of the prisons, that can hold about 35-40 people. These inmates are kept in a separate area from the general population, where severe overcrowding (sometimes upwards of 300-600 more inmates than the jail’s capacity) occurs. The NGO also focuses on HIV/AIDS education (see the pictures of some of the posters they have at their offices below).

The director gave us a glimpse of what prison conditions in Mumbai’s prisons – in particular its main prison, Arthur Road – look like. He also showed us two multimedia presentations on his organization, and even arranged for us to visit a drop-in center tomorrow, where we will have a chance to interview drug users who have recently been released from prison, and are seeking help and assistance through the NGO.

After our visit, we went down to the Fort area of Mumbai, back to the offices of our original partner organization. There we met with the director (a very high profile individual who lectures around the world, including at the HIV/AIDS Conference in Toronto in October, issues related to prisons, GLBT rights, HIV/AIDS and more). He gave us feedback on the way to go about interviewing stakeholders regarding Mumbai’s prison conditions, and also some context on the struggle for human rights within India (he mentioned a law that was recently passed that would require human rights activists to register with the government every time they held a conference, an example of the increasing bureaucratic and political struggle between activists and government officials).

At our surprise, the director invited us to a special lecture being held that night, at the Mumbai High Court. The lecture was being given by Justice Michael Kirby, Judge of the High Court of Australia, on “The Life, Books and Legacy of H.M. Seervai.” H.M. Seervai was a legal scholar in India who wrote “Constitutional Law in India,” a book Seervai referred to as a masterpiece. Kirby was not only eloquent, but spoke with such authority on the intersection of moral ethics and the law. Kirby said that “Equal justice under the law should not just be in our courtrooms, but in our hearts and minds as well.”

Drawing from Justice Anthony Kennedy’s opinion on Lawrence v. Texas, Kirby urged the courts of India to strike down the country’s anti-sodomy law, quoting Kennedy: ..."times can blind us to certain truths and later generations can see that laws once thought necessary and proper in fact serve only to oppress. As the Constitution endures, persons in every generation can invoke its principles in their own search for greater freedom."

Lastly, Kirby spoke of the import of judiciary independence, stating that “A truly uncorrupted judiciary is a force…we must guard that independence with all of our power. If it is lost, it will take a long time to regain the trust of the people. We can’t trust the media and the government to do this.”

In the end, it was an impressive lecture, made even more impressive by the surroundings of the Mumbai high court, and an audience of lawyers, judges, and legal professionals from throughout Mumbai. As Justice Kirby said, “India is one of the greatest examples before the world for the future of the rule of law and the constitution on this planet.”

Afterwards we had dinner with a colleague studying for his Ph.D. in anthropology in Edinburgh (he is specifically studying the role of queer activism among the MSM community in India), and traveled back to our flat in Chembur. After a late-night team meeting, we shut the lights out near 1:00am, putting an end to a 15-hour day, and our second day in Mumbai.

Monday, January 8, 2007

Day One: Meetings & Logistics

Monday (January 8) marked the first full day of our mission, and two words sum up the bulk of our day: meetings and logistics. Still a bit jet-lagged (given the 30+ hour flight, and the fact that we didn’t leave Chatrapati Shivaji International Airport until the middle of the night), we woke up for a 9am breakfast meeting with the full team, thoroughly going over the mission plan and doing an initial “mapping” of our trip. The crux of our mission will focus on doing a report of prison conditions here in India, covering a wide range of public health concerns. As of now, we have yet to get access to any prisons, meaning that the report will focus on the input of stakeholders as opposed to directly interviewing prisoners. But judging from our initial mapping, just getting a handle on the many stakeholders involved could fill up an entire three weeks and then some.

One breakfast meeting and several charts of mappings later, we were off to downtown Mumbai, to meet with our partner NGO. Our driver was simply amazing, weaving and bobbing in-and-out of traffic that puts Boston rush hour to shame. After about a half-hour ride, we arrived at our partner NGOs offices, in the heard of Mumbai near the financial district.

At our partner NGO’s office, we gave quick introductions, and met most everyone there – legal officers, advocacy officers, project coordinators, receptionists, interns and more. The six of us then met privately with two legal officers, getting debriefed on the NGO’s work with prisons (and a host of other issues, including a petition before the Indian Supreme Court to overturn the country’s ban on sodomy, and a focus on children’s rights, in particular looking at cases where children have been removed from schools because of their HIV-status). The crux of the meeting was twofold: to introduce ourselves to the NGO in person (after a six-month email relationship!), and to listen to and build off of the network of relationships they’ve built looking at issues of public health and prisons.

With the help of one of their legal officers, we set up a meeting with an NGO that works with drug users and HIV-infected individuals for the following day. It was a jam-packed afternoon meeting, and following we joined the staff for a tea break, and also got a handful of literature from the NGO, including newsletters, magazines and more.

The first day’s meetings were finished, which meant that it was time for logistics, namely buying prepaid cell phones for every member of our team. We walked through the financial district, through the busy streets of downtown Mumbai, and made our way to the Hutch dealer, where we all purchased pre-paid phones. Though this was relatively easy, the process took quite a bit of time, not to mention quite a number of copies of all of our passports. A word to the wise on field missions: the logistics can sometimes be more of a process than you might think!

Finally, we ended the night by joining a remote family member of a student on our team for a great meal in Southern Mumbai, off the coast of the Back Bay. Their apartment was located in an historic area, where leaders of India’s independence first met more than 60 years ago to map the stages of what would become India’s breakaway from British colonial rule.

We arrived back at our place at 11:30pm – a nice 13-hour day to start off the mission.

Friday, January 5, 2007

Traveling miles

Not to steal a line from Jazz singer Cassandra Wilson, but tomorrow marks the departure for a group of Human Rights Program students to Mumbai, India. The six of us (four students, a clinical instructor, and myself) will be spending 19 days in Mumbai, working on a variety of international human rights projects with several Mumbai-based NGOs.

This blog entry kicks off the Human Rights Program's attempt to document in real time various clinical projects, and news from the International Human Rights Clinic. Please continue to check back throughout the next three weeks for updates on our team's trip to Mumbai, and beyond the next three weeks for updated information on all of our projects.